Tamiya: Monkey 125 - Group Build

Tom ...
Not an official start to the build. Just want to get the future done as soon as possible so it's fully cured later on.

Robin (WhiteGlint)
Well, that's smooth and glossy. 👍

Martin Oostrom
Hey Tom, you started early!
How do you apply your future?

Tom ...
Martin, I simply dunked the whole sprue into a jar of future and then vigorously flicked the excess off. Very lucky to not have any dust collect in the process. I then placed it level as in the photo and it came out perfect! It's all down hill from here on I'm sure…

Tom ...
It's a really nice kit. Very impressed with the tooling and quality of the plastic. Taking more time than I was thinking so far but I'm really trying to do a clean build and remove seam lines and sprue spurs as much as possible. Also doesn't help that most things need to be painted before assembly so a lot of fiddly work and not an option to paint on the sprues for me.

I'm also planning on using the chrome as is. It's actually really nice and doesn't look too toy like. Not used to working with chrome plated parts so hopefully I don't mess it up. I'm wondering if one can 2K the chrome parts to help avoid scuffing?...

David Fuller
I would recommend NOT overcoating the chrome parts with clear. If you're curious, take a piece of the sprue and hit it with clear, but you'll find that it actually dulls it down. Tamiya chrome is generally really durable. I didn't have any issues with mine. There are only a couple spots where the attachment points are sort of visible, but Tamiya does a decent job of hiding them behind something. The worst area is the front fender. The attachment points end up being somewhat hidden by the front fork. A little bit of chrome paint brushed on it and you'll never notice unless you are inspecting for it.

Tom ...
Thanks, David. Good to know.

Hoped to get everything primed tonight, after a marathon session of snipping, scraping and sanding, and was looking forward to seeing how well my preparations turned out (or not). Unfortunately there are two pieces that have to wait for their CA filler to fully cure before I can finish them.

Never been this meticulous about removing sprue spurs and seams but the quality and small size of the pieces I feel calls for it, and it was ultimately very satisfying. The seams are relative minor, except maybe the rear fork.

Martin Oostrom
No need to turn on the afterburner Tom!

Tom ...
Martin, it was a slow work day...

Peter Hardy
Looking pretty good Tom! How did you go with the join on the air box?

Tom ...
Peter, good thing you mentioned that. I forgot about the air box so doing it now.

For relatively small seams I use generous amounts of thick CA, making sure to fill the gaps completely and fully cure, then use a sharp blade to carefully shave off the raised glue till it is nearly flush and then lots of scrapping and sanding, particularly if either side of the joint is not level to begin with.

For big gaps I go with 3M's Glazing Putty which is nasty to use (and apply) but sands down beautifully. Using it currently in my "Invisible Man" build and will shortly have some photos of it in action.

For in between sizes, where it's not worth dealing with the glazing putty, I either use "Perfect Plastic Putty" or baking soda soaked with thin CA. If doing the baking soda I generally have to finish with thick CA again as the baking soda doesn't always sand smooth.

Peter Hardy
We got a fair bit of time so don't rush it Tom. Kyle's kit hasn't even arrived yet and Pete Muldoon want's to finish his current build. Take your time. (I have a Mercedes G4 covered with rock hard 2k clear to sand too)!

Tom ...
No worries. I'm not racing. Going to be waiting to see what everyone else does anyway, and I have an invisible man to get on with. It's nice though to get all the mindless prep out of the way.

Tom ...
Priming turned out well. Just a few pieces need minor going over again. Trying out Mr. Hobby's metal primer for the springs, which I originally got for priming PE parts. Not sure if it is any better or worse than the Tamiya surface primer.

Kyle DeHart
Believe my kit my arrive tomorrow. Fingers crossed anyway. Looking forward to getting into it. Something different! Looking good Tom!

Tom ...
Kyle, you won't be disappointed. Really nice kit.

Spanjaard
Looking really nice

MS K
I used GSI metal primer for a long time, but it was very disappointing that it fell short of expectations every time.
So I looked for alternatives and did some experiments. (motorart.tistory.com/225)
I recommend 'Gaianotes Multiprimer' or 'Vallejo Mecha Primer' better than 'GSI Metal Primer'.
or Using a 'Vallejo Metal Varnish' as a primer also gives great results.

Peter Hardy
That's an awful big can of primer for such a little tiny incy wincy minute pair of springs Tom!

Peter Muldoon
Looks great Tom! The futuring on the clear is a great idea. I am yet to try future on any builds. I had a slow start on mine but then once I got going it all came together so quickly. Such a lovely kit. I also opted to keep the kit chrome. Have you tried Aqua Gloss Clear over the chrome to protect it? I haven't tried it, but I know it goes okay over Molotow and SMS chrome. Mine got a little scuffed along the way.

Tom ...
There be progress...

Peter, I have experimented with the 2K clear I have and it works a charm on the chrome. Super happy about that.

I'll post more pictures in a while but so far I've managed to paint all the "black" parts, used Alclad II Polished Aluminium for the engine and wheels, masked the frame for painting, done some chrome assembly work and installed glass. Still a ways to go but I might be able to finish this in two or three weeks, assuming life doesn't get in the way.

Bill Newcomer
I am curious as to why you have O'scopes on the bench with your models. (I have one too)

Tom ...
Bill, it's my other hobby (of many), analog synth building and general electronics.

Bill Newcomer
cool. It is one of my other hobbies too. I used to troubleshoot and repair circuit boards to the component level.

Tom ...
Just final assembly left to do. The front forks have a really high tolerance. Going to have to scrape paint off to get them to fit properly.

Peter Hardy
Coming on well Tom! I like the colours. Yep, the forks are tight!

Tom ...
thx Peter. She's coming together nicely. Should be finished in a day or two.

Kyle DeHart
Looking really nice.

Peter Muldoon
Love that colour

Tom ...
And finished! I really really like the final result. I think there will be more bikes in my future. I love all the details. Actually have the 1/6th scale version of the Monkey, which I bought a while back, so looking forward to doing this all again but bigger.

Need to get back to my Invisible Man but I'm thinking the Thunderbird's Mole would be super fun right now...

Peter Muldoon
This looks fantastic! The yellow is so vibrant and fun. Great kit this one. I would happily build another.

Kyle DeHart
Lovely job Tom! I too greatly enjoyed this kit and it has made me want to get into some more bikes as well

Peter Hardy
Well worth dipping the toes into bikes Tom. As you said, the details are all visible so they are very satisfying to look at long after the build is finished and there is no need to lift a bonnet or leave a door open. We will look forward to more from you!

Robin (WhiteGlint)
Looks great, Tom! 👍

Martin Oostrom
She's looking great Tom! And I too love the golden yellow

Neuling
Cool! Beautiful!

Spanjaard
Looking truly fantastic Tom!

bughunter
Looks real 👍

David Fuller
Looks great Tom! Watch yourself, they can be addicting!

Rui S
Nice colors well done 👍 You have to like this mini trails 🙂

Tom ...
Thanks all. Much appreciated! On to the next build 🙂

Markus Antonius
Nice and clean build!